T-RIP is the next generation of our older and popular FastRIP software and the truth is we are the leaders in RIP software. Works a treat, I also made casts for selenium blue and sepia.Introducing T-RIP 2.0 from Scott Fresener. This requires making some test strips to find what looks neutral to you with the inks you use, so you can zero in on the best color shift to apply. This process gives me images that are much more B&W neutral than the B&W printing option used by the Epson driver, yet pixel wise the print quality is the same quality.
In order to get around this for myself I use Photoshop to turn the image into grayscale and then back into RGB and apply a slight color shift to the 'color' image, to compensate, and then print in color. The only printers that do excellent black and white are either converted for B&W only printing or upmarket printers that have a proprietary grey ink as well as black.īut, I have good news for you.
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Thing is, when you do that and see 100% color free images, you realise there is no combination of adding color ink into the mix that does not, in the process, also colour shift the image to a degree. I do black only printing on an earlier model 1410 using Quad Tone RIP, but that is not possible with your printer. You might find my experiments of some interest. Not everyone wants to fuss of doing this, in which case a higher end photoprinter like the P600 using ABW mode will be a solid alternative. The dedicated B&W inks work well in the 1500w according to Paul Roark and they will give a more consistent monochrome result than Claria colour inks. It's more common to convert a printer permanently to a dedicated B&W solution but you can always swap ink carts if you want to preserve colour capability. I think Farbenwerks in Germany offer a similar solution and there is always Piezography. The 1500w supports MIS eboni dedicated B&W inks which you can get in pre-filled carts or fill your own from bottles. Is it my printer? Should I get another model? I have an Epson Stylus Photo 1500W printer but I cannot get it to print a decent black and white photo without a colour cast in the grey tones. But you can probably get satisfactory results with your 1500W.Īnd if you don't mind giving up color, then you could convert your 1500W to a dedicated B&W piezography printer.
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For two grays (black plus gray and light gray) there are many Epson and Canon models. For three grays (that is black plus dark gray, gray, and light gray), your options are limited to the discontinued Canon Pro-1 and the huge / expensive Epson P10000 and P20000. I tried it, but did not find it helpful / any sort of improvement, and it takes away your media settings by forcing you to tell the printer you're printing on plain paper, which is often not ideal for photos.Īs far as another printer, I don't doubt that a pigment-ink printer with three or at least two grays could, if properly controlled, be better. The method Charles linked to has been touted around here for years by forum member Zone8. If you're not using a color-managed workflow, then the situation is considerably less controllable. There are also services that will build custom B&W profiles for you. Renting or borrowing a basic X-Rite device like an i1 Studio or ColorMunki Photo will allow you to use X-Rite's current software to build ICC profiles specifically geared for B&W printing. As long as you're using a color-managed workflow, the simplest thing to try may be a custom ICC profile.
My experience is with the smaller R280, which I think uses the exact same inkset (Claria HD dyes in CcMmYK). Some points that may matter: (1) are you using a color-managed workflow? (2) Are you using genuine Epson ink? (3) What paper(s) are you printing onto? (4) What ICC profile(s), if any, are you using? I cannot get it to print a decent black and white photo without a colour cast in the grey tones. I have an Epson Stylus Photo 1500W printerįor reference, I think that's the same printer that was sold in the U.S.
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